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Gardener, What of Your Compost Heap?
By Trevor Dalley

To the making of composts there is no end.

Where it is possible to make compost, this is the best material of all for the gardener to use. All kinds of green material and garden waste can be incorporated in the heap including annual weeds. Grass Mowings, Hedge Trimmings, Pea, tomato and Bean haulm, old flower stems and so on.

If a proportion of manure can be obtained, this also should be included in the heap, though it is not absolutely essential. Poultry manure, if included, should not exceed 20 per cent in bulk and should be applied in layers not more than an inch thick. A thick layer of poultry manure will prevent air from circulating and retard the break-down of the heap. It is often possible to obtain industrial or semi-industrial organic waste (waste from eating establishments and hotels) that, if incorporated in reasonable proportions, can be of great value.

Seaweed is probably the most valuable of all, and other materials which I have used include water-weed from rivers and canals, decayed sawdust from the old sawmills and waste coffee, cocoa residues from various industrial processes, also we have used hemp not the type that some people smoke, (if you tried to smoke this type you would have to roll a joint the size of a telegraph pole to get any sort of buzz) we only use the type for making rope.

Fresh fallen leaves have a delaying effect on the break-down of the heap and it is better, therefore, to allow them to rot by themselves for a year or two and then to incorporate them in the compost heap.
I find that the Garden Compost Heap should not exceed four feet square and about three feet high, but they can be made of any desired size.

If the Compost Heap is made to wide or to high, there will be a lack of air and the majority of the necessary bacteria will not multiply. The Garden Compost Heap should be built on soil rather than on a concrete base or on gravel. If it is built on grassland, it is better to dig out the top 4 inches of the grass. In any case, there should be a loose layer of hard, woody material to assist aeration.

Baled Straw is the best material to use for the walls; it provides a neat, convenient method of making the heap and enables the compost to decompose fully right up to the walls and assists the retention of the heat of decomposition. After the bales have been used two or three times and have started to disintegrate, the Straw Bale can itself be incorporated in the next heap. Many Garden Compost Heaps, however, are made without any retaining walls at all.

Quicker results and more even decomposition will be obtained if the raw materials are mixed and shredded before being put on to the heap and there are several shredding machines on the market which are very efficient. Where no shredder is available, dry materials should be mixed with fresh green matter in alternate layers. Straw Bales of any description should be thoroughly wetted. The layers should not exceed 6 inches in thickness and should be a good deal less in the case of Grass Mowings and any other material that will form a mass which the air cannot penetrate.

A light sprinkling of topsoil or good de-composted compost should be added at every twelve inches of height to introduce bacteria into the heap. A sprinkling of lime dust in the form of crushed chalk at a rate of one ounce to every two square yards may also be added along with the topsoil.

Layers of Well Rotted Farmyard Manure in the Garden Compost Heap will act as an activator, but whether there is Manure in the heap or not, I always use an activator usually herbal based as I find this speeds up decomposition.
The final covering of the Garden Compost Heap can either be an inch or two of topsoil or a rough thatch of straw, slopped to carry off the rain. In large Garden Compost Heaps, vertical air holes are necessary. They should be spaced at 3 feet intervals down the centre of the Garden Compost Heap.

If the heap seems to be drying out, the outside should be wetted. Try to wet evenly and avoid saturation. There may be a certain amount of leaching from the bottom of the Garden Compost Heap if no retaining wall is used. In such a case it is well to spread a thin layer of sawdust, peat or other absorbent organic matter round the base of the Garden Compost Heap. This material can be incorporated into the next Garden Compost Heap that is made and will add to the value of the finished compost.

The process of decomposition will be greatly accelerated by turning the Garden Compost Heap once every 3 to 4 weeks after building. If so desired the Garden Compost Heap can be treated again with an activator during the turning process but this is not essential. Garden Compost Heaps made chiefly of fresh green material will often break down quite successfully without any turning at all but where the material is very dry and made from straw one turn is practically essential.

It is most important that the high temperature at the centre of the Garden Compost Heap should be obtained, otherwise annual weed seeds may survive and be reintroduced all over the garden. It is advisable to purchase a soil thermometer and make sure that the Garden Compost Heap reaches a temperature of no less than 40 degrees Celsius. If the Garden Compost Heap does not heat up, the reason is probably that it has been built to slowly.

The remedy is to turn it and add fresh green material; also adding chicken dung pellets will help. There is no objection to incorporating diseased vegetable matter in the well-made Garden Compost Heap that heats up properly. In fact, there is considerable evidence to prove that such a Garden Compost Heap becomes a breeding-ground for bacteria that will fight the disease, and that the resulting Garden Compost Heap, when applied to the soil, will give resistance to, if not immunity from, the disease concerned.

This seems to be particularly true in the case of Tomatoes, and many gardeners insist that the compost that they use for their Tomato crops should contain as large a proportion as possible of old Tomato haulm.
Garden Compost-Making is an art that has to be acquired. It is, however, not a difficult art and any Gardener with a reasonable amount of common sense can quickly learn it.

It is also, quite frankly, something which we know more about now than lets say 100 years ago mainly because of the advancements in modern scientific research. What I do think is that some gardeners make much to heavy weather of Garden Compost-Making. It need not be anything like the laborious a job as many people think, providing the Garden Compost Heap is sited in the right place as to avoid unnecessary transport of materials.

Trevor Dalley has been growing and preserving his own fruit for 40 year, most of the preserves are sold in his Organic Farm Shops in Herefordshire England. Did you find those tips on Organic Food a way of Life useful?

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Container Gardening Essentials – Discover Nature’s 7 Most Nutritious and Power Packed Herbs
By Eric Samms

Scientists and nutritionists insist that we pack in as many raw and organic fruits and vegetables for maximum health and vitality. But the humble herb’s inner vigor is often overlooked. But not anymore, through the charms of organic container gardening, it’s time to not only add a melody of tastes, but a great source of essential vitamins, minerals and nutrients.

The Finalists Are:

1. Mints : There are a variety of mint leaves, the most common being spearmint, peppermint, apple mint, and ginger mint. Use mints in salads, dressings, in teas, with lamb, in summer drinks and sorbets, and also as a garnish.

It has been used for centuries in Asian cuisine and herbal treatments. It was considered so usefull that it was an accepted as a tax payment. Jesus even scolds the Pharisees in Luke (11:39) “you pay tithes of mint and rue…but have no care for justice and the love of God.” Not only does it taste great, but it freshens the breath, helps settle the stomach and aids digestion, and has been found to slow the growth of some fungi and bacteria.

2. Basil : A clean and distinctive flavor, it especially works great with fresh tomato and cooked tomato based dishes, such as those from Italy. It can be added to soups, salads, breads, and pasta and forms the key ingredient in pesto.

Research studies on basil have shown unique health-protecting effects in two basic areas: basil’s flavonoids and volatile oils. Flavonoids are chemicals components – and Basil’s have been found to protect cells from radiation and oxygen damage. It’s oil has been found to have antibacterial properties, and it is a rich source of Vitamin A which helps prevent free-radical cell damage.

3. Parsley : A light and refreshing herb, with 2 main varieties curly and flat leaf. It is very versatile, and is wonderful added to just about any dish – soups, salads, breads.

It is also no modest herb – bursting in Vitamin C, an important component to disease prevention and great skin. Plus it is also a rich source of other nutrients such as Vitamin’s K and A, and Folic Acid, an important factor in good cardiovascular health.

4. Chives : They are delicate in flavor, and as such more suited to light dishes and salads, or as wonderful garnishes or decoration. If you have more than you need just store them in the freezer, and use as required.

Chives are from the allium family , and All alliums contain iron, and vitamins. Low in Saturated Fat, Cholesterol, and Sodium , and High in Dietary Fiber, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin K, Riboflavin, Vitamin B6, Folate, Calcium, Iron, Magnesium, Potassium, Copper, Manganese, Thiamin, Niacin, Pantothenic Acid, Phosphorus and Zinc.

5. Thyme : This herb is one of my favorites. It has a warming and satisfying flavor, and works great with chicken, sprinkled on vegetables, and in light salads.

Derived from a Greek word meaning courage, thyme is said to be an invigorating herb, and is also renowned for it’s antiseptic and anti-fungal properties, and anti-spasmodic qualities – useful to soothe digestion and menstrual cramps and is an excellent source of iron and manganese, calcium and a food source of dietary fiber.

6. Dill : A light a refreshing herb which works wonderfully with salmon, in salads, and dressings.

Dill’s name comes from the old Norse word “dilla” which means “to lull” reflecting it’s traditional uses as both a stomach soother and an insomnia reliever. The total volatile oil portion of dill has been shown to have bacteria-regulating effects, much like garlic, and is good source of calcium.

7. Sage : A strong and meaty herb, it partners well with some chicken dishes, as well as onions and potatoes, and form many herbal teas.

Similar to rosemary and thyme, sage helps reduce depletion of the brain’s concentration of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that is crucial to proper brain function. A combination of ginkgo biloba, sage, and rosemary may help prevent or slow the development of Alzheimer’s. More research is needed to find out why sage is so effective but researchers think it could be a combination of chemicals in the oil which have an effect on acetylecholine and which give it antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, also considered to be of value in Alzheimer’s therapy.

It helps promote digestion health, its antiseptic action is especially important in relation to intestinal infection and is said to reduce gripping pains by relaxing the intestines.
It is an excellent remedy for helping to remove mucous congestion in and numerous studies have confirmed that Sage leaf helps to reduce menopausal sweats, and helps reduce pain associated with menstruation.

Who ever would have thought that herbs could be such nutritious powerhouses? So before you reach for the salt, think ‘Fresh Nutritious Herbs’, and add these to your breads, pasta dishes, salads, soups, meat dishes, hot teas, and anything else you’d like to try! Organic container gardening is the tool to growing your personal, pesticide free herbs, plus it’s fun, fulfilling, a great way to save money, and it keeps you and the family bursting with health and vitality.

I’m Eric Samms and I’m here to share my passion for Container Gardening with you all. After years of starting, maintaining and developing my own Container Gardens for the last 11 years – it’s time to give away my secrets. Now it’s your turn to learn all about Container Gardening and it’s many amazing benefits in your life! Visit http://www.containergardeningexpert.com today for more great container gardening tips plus your two free gifts!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Eric_Samms
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Nearly Work-Free Vegetable Gardening
By Ian Pennington

Growing vegetables from your own garden is one of the best ways to provide your family with healthy and fresh produce. But starting a garden can be a time consuming and intimidating process, particularly for beginners. Fear of the amount of labor and time involved in planting and maintaining a garden keeps many would-be gardeners out of the garden and in the supermarket instead.

Much of this fear may be misplaced, however. There has been much experimentation in the gardening community in recent years aimed at developing innovative ways to reduce the amount of time and labor spent gardening, often with sensational results. Although there may be no such thing as completely work free vegetable gardening, there are definitely ways in which you are able to dramatically reduce the amount of labor and time you need to spend in your garden.

One of the best ways to lessen the work spent preparing and weeding your garden is through a gardening method known as “Lasagna Gardening” or “Sheet Mulching.” Lasagna gardening is a non-traditional, no-till method of gardening that relies on blanketing a garden plot with multiple layers of mulch obtained from locally available, and preferably organic, sources (such as weed clippings, chopped leaves, animal manure, compost, sawdust or seaweed). The lasagna gardening method greatly reduces the time and labor needed to prepare a new garden plot, and some gardeners report that they spend almost no time at all weeding a well-mulched lasagna garden. This may be as close to work free vegetable gardening as one can get.

Here are some additional suggestions to greatly reduce the amount of time and labor spent in your vegetable garden:

- Grow prolific vegetables. Vegetables like summer squash, pole green beans and indeterminate tomatoes produce large quantities of produce for extended periods during the summer. The amount of labor they require is very small in comparison to the harvest you will reap.
- Keep your garden small. It is easy to be overwhelmed by your garden, and many gardeners end up either producing much more than they can consume or giving up entirely. You will only need one or two zucchini or tomato plants to feed most families.
- Choose vegetables well suited for your climate. Although growing a long-season winter squash in Maine or keeping a heat-sensitive lettuce variety from bolting in Florida may be noteworthy accomplishments, they are also time-consuming projects. Stick to growing vegetables that are best suited to your region.
- Choose vegetable varieties that have a reputation of being easy to grow. Many seed catalogs will mark certain vegetable varieties as being especially easy to grow. Select these varieties if they are available.

By using gardening methods such as lasagna gardening and focusing on growing the most prolific, easy to grow vegetables for your region, you are on your way to nearly work free vegetable gardening.

Ian Pennington is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
To learn more about
Work Free Vegetable Gardening, please visit
Garden World Online for
current articles and discussions.

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